my surfing anecdote

(@chiomao_)

I somehow found myself doing this incredibly bold activity off the coast of Lima, Peru. The idea of doing it was exhilarating; while walking to the beach, my mind was swinging between it’s so awesome I’m doing this and I cannot believe I am actually going to surf in the Pacific Ocean; this is insane.

So, I got to the beach, put on the wetsuit, and practiced on land before curiously entering the Pacific with my surfboard. It’s so hilariously obvious that practicing on land is far easier than actually being in the ocean. By the way, even if you can swim, always remember that swimming in an ocean is absolutely different than swimming in a pool. Perhaps the most important distinction is that you can see where a pool starts and ends, but that’s not the case for a literal ocean.

Being in the ocean was freeing, but a bit nerve-wracking because the surfboard was moving against the ocean’s current. Now, where it got tricky was standing on the board in the ocean. It’s surely not as uncomplicated as it looks in the movies or even in real life when people move so seamlessly and almost musically with the waves, making the ocean look a lot friendlier than it’s generally inclined to be for a beginner surfer. Standing on the surfboard was far more complex than it looked was one of those things that you had to prep your mind for, then prep your body for. When you see a giant wave coming your way or behind you, it’s very easy to let that overwhelm you, but standing on that board is rebelling against the current, and it’s amazing.

Surfing is the perfect embodiment of what it’s like to fight fear. When you’re afraid, it can be hard to face the waves, but you have to find the courage to lift yourself up or allow yourself to be lifted up, to confront that fear. The thing about fear is that it demands to be felt. I think it’s a reminder that you’re human because you cannot escape certain emotions. How we control ourselves around the uncontrollable is extremely pivotal in defining our character and measuring our development. Fear itself perhaps isn’t as relevant as what we do when we’re afraid.

I’d recommend surfing because it was worth it; it’s one of those activities that provoke an adrenaline boost and teaches you a bit about yourself. Also, it’s beautiful being in the ocean!!

Until the next one

- C